This kegerator holds 2 commercial 1/6 barrel kegs. It should have no problem holding 2 cornies too.

I got the fridge from Best Buy on sale.

The kegerator parts came from Micromatic. They happen to be about 15 minutes from my house so I picked up the parts same day. I bought the deluxe dual tower conversion kit.

I found a carbonics company about 20 minutes away from here. I had to buy a tank from them, but they swap for full tanks around $10. If I can ever figure out how to safely cut 1 or 2 holes in the back to run the gas lines external, I will upgrade to the 20lb bottle.

Now if I can just find someone around here with hefeweizen in a sixtel life will be great.

If you know how to safely cut a hole for the CO2 lines, I really would like to hear from you at

Looks pretty nice inside. Too bad its going to get hacked.

7 screws and the top comes off.
(those are dart throwlines on the garage floor)

I cut an 8" x 11" x 1/2" board on the table saw. This is going in between the cover and the top of the fridge to make a solid tower mount.

With a utility knife and a sharp chisel I cut the tabs off of the cover bottom. The space left is 8" x 11"

Lots of silicone sealer on the bottom of the board and the top of the fridge. More sealer on the top of the board and the bottom of the cover.

Drill a 3" hole about 9" from the back of the fridge. This is to avoid cutting the freon lines. I bought the 3" hole saw from Lowe's for about $15. It is a metal/wood saw.

I used aluminum tape inside the hole to help insulate and protect the beer lines from the sharp edges. Beer lines dropped into the hole, and tower is screwed into place.

Gas lines connected to the coupler. Hooked up to the CO2 tank and did a leak test with soapy water.

I made a stand that will hold the CO2 tank up on the small compressor shelf inside the kegerator. The over hang on the left rests on the shelf. Every inch inside the kegerator is needed to fit 2 commercial 1/6 barrel kegs.

Here is the view of the CO2 tank sitting on the shelf.

The keg on the right goes in the back next to the CO2 tank. The keg on the left is offset more towards the front of the kegerator. I had to cut the front door liner off to fit both kegs inside. If you only want 1 commercial keg to fit, you can leave the liner in and just remove the bottom right shelf. Make sure you leave 1/2" of the door liner so the seal will stay put. There are screws that go through the liner, into the seal, and into the door.

For tower cooling I bought a project box from Radio Shack and a scavenged 80mm computer case fan. A hole for the fan was cut with the 3" hole saw used earlier on the fridge top.

I took an old 12v power adapter and cut the connector off to power the fan. The drip tray in the back of the kegerator comes off so you can run the wire up through the drain hole inside.

I took a 4' x 1 1/4" flex tube and put it into a hole drilled in the top of the box. The other end is run up the tower to the top.

This setup allows the cold air from the bottom of the kegerator to cool the tower and faucets before returning the air back into the fridge.

I'm think of adding a 2nd hole in the top of the project box to circ more air in the kegerator. Right now 34cfm is a bit much for the tower. There is a lot of condensation building up on the outside.

With two commercial kegs, the temperatures vary greatly and this keeps the cold air circulating well.

Picked up the new Bud Light tap handle from the restaurant near our house. I just asked the bartender if they had any extras. Luckily they didn't like the look of the new handles.

Here is the completed kegerator. I moved the wine fridge into the gameroom and decided to add an oak top to both so we have more room for the liquor carousel and beer glasses. Make sure you put a tip jar on top so your friends will help pay for the next keg.

Since I took these photos I added an external temperature monitor. I bought a cheapo digital submersible probe thermometer.
I took it apart and extended the wires.
I mounted the screen on the side of the kegerator with some 3m adhesive and ran the probe into the top of a water bottle.
I placed the water bottle on top of the right keg inside. Now I get the temperature of the beer in the beer lines.
There was a 4* temp variance when I tested it against my Maverick digital meat thermometer.

I almost forgot to mention an important part. The inside walls need the tabs cut out to fit 2 1/6 barrels. These are where the glass shelves slide into the refrigerator.

Use a utility knife with a carpet blade. It's the one that looks like a hook. Be extremely careful because you will be cutting toward yourself.

I used Aluminum tape to cover the holes. Not too sure how well it will hold up to the moisture over time.

Here is a rough drawing of how I made the tank stand for the CO2 bottle.

I used 6 2" drywall screws to attach the 3 pieces. Don't forget pilot holes and counter sink.

Another benefit of the tank stand is that the regulator and adjustment screw clears the top of the left keg so nothing needs to be moved to view pressure and make changes.

Check out Courtland Photography while you are here!